In Good Taste: Guenievre Milliner, Little Gourmand

Parisian-born Guenievre Milliner was raised with a love of good food, and she shares that passion daily at Little Gourmand. She learned her way around the kitchen from her mother, who she describes as an amazing cook. A career in entertainment marketing in France and working for a French fine foods importer in Montreal, Canada, that provided products to the country’s best restaurants gave her the knowledge and connections to realize her dream of opening her own business. After two years of research and planning, she and her family moved to Nashville, and in 2014, she opened her French market and cafe on Bandywood Drive. Stocking a tantalizing array of French gourmet grocery items, she soon began offering typical French baguette sandwiches, quiches, soups and pastries for excited customers. That success led her to open a second location, an authentic French patisserie in Berry Hill, and despite the pandemic, she immediately began a brisk business selling out of croissants, pain au chocolat and baguettes almost every morning. Guenievre talks a bit about what’s brought her this far and what’s next.

CREATIVE PROCESS

It’s all about emotions. I rely a lot on childhood memories. I was raised with amazing food, and I try to bring back these emotions.

JOB PERKS

Making people happy. That’s what keeps me going, even through hard times. I have had moments when I doubted. It’s not easy being in a foreign country, far from your children and family, but being a part of our customers’ lives — even a small one — and bringing joy is what makes it worth it. 

JOB CHALLENGES

Trying to find a balance is the hardest. In a day, I have to be a mom, a wife, a friend, a baker, a saleswoman, an HR person, a buyer, an accountant, a marketing expert. It’s 24/7. Running a small business is sometimes exhausting. 

BIGGEST INFLUENCE

I have had several mentors along the way. My parents raised me with fine food and trained my palate and taste. Yves C was my boss at Warner Bros. for several years and taught me everything I know about marketing. My best friend, Sandrine, taught me balance and self-esteem. And my husband had, of course, the biggest influence on my life, teaching me how to dream big. 

EAT LOCAL

We love Miel, and I have great admiration for Seema [Prasad] and the way she is running her business. Santo is on our top list too. They make a great cassoulet, and I am partial to the duck leg confit. Answer is among our favorites for cocktails and small plates shared on the patio, I drive to East Nashville for the beef tartare at Once Upon a Time in France, and Josephine never disappoints. I still need to try Lou and Henrietta Red. I never have been able to go, and they’re next on my list! 

INDULGENCES

Bread, for sure, preferably with (very) salted butter. I can eat bread with each meal, and I couldn’t live without it! I am so happy that we now offer sourdough loaves every day. My favorite snack/treat is probably a fresh canelé de Bordeaux. My favorite meal would include foie gras with a glass of Sauternes, an entrée of scallops and lemon tart as a dessert.

BEST ADVICE

Find your niche, be patient and consistent. It’s going to be a roller coaster, so choose something that truly brings you happiness. 

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS

[My first baked good was] probably a flourless chocolate cake. First time, I actually forgot to add flour! It was so good that I kept making it that way. I still bake it from time to time. 

CAREER PATH

Little Gourmand came after many years in marketing. I was lucky enough to have had another career before and to have the maturity needed to run a small business. I wouldn’t have made the jump without my husband. He usually has the vision [and] the ideas, and then I get to make them happen!

IN THE WORKS

We just opened our second location in the middle of a pandemic and survived. I still need to grow the patisserie before moving to the next phase. On the menu side, our pastry chef, Denis Savouray, is constantly experiencing and developing recipes so there is always something new to keep customers excited about! Business-wise, my goal is to expand our team to be able to delegate some tasks to focus on other sides of the business. I have an amazing team right now; it’s a dream. But I know I need extra help.

FAVORITE CHEF

Pierre Hermé is my favorite pastry chef in the world. I am always amazed by his creativity and technique. Locally, the best meal I ever had was by Trevor Moran at The Catbird Seat. It was a very unique experience and absolutely perfect, from start to finish. I need to go to Locust! And although I haven’t been since COVID, Philip Krajeck at Rolf & Daughters is very impressive too. 

FUTURE PLANS

I want to keep Little Gourmand growing and expanding in the Nashville area. And I still want to develop our catering side. But I am extremely careful and like to take it one step at a time.