If you look at a list of things that elicited awe and wonder in 1902 and compare them to what impresses a jaded audience in 2026, the overlap might be small. One exception is the synchronized light show that illuminates a 200-foot dome at 9:04 p.m. nightly at Indiana’s West Baden Springs Hotel. Even in an age when hotel-goers (or more likely, their children and grandchildren) can listen to anything on the phones in their pockets, people line up on chaise lounges in the lobby or on their balconies to watch West Baden’s colored lights change to prerecorded music.
This almost-hypnotic dome is an apt example of the lure of French Lick Resort — and its landmark West Baden Springs Hotel. First opened in the 1850s and nestled around natural springs, the hotel has been through historical ups and downs. After a fire destroyed the hotel in 1901, its new owner rebuilt it in Gilded Age glory, designing a massive central dome (which, at the time, was the country’s largest). With its colored lights and architectural marvel, some in 1902 called the hotel “the eighth wonder of the world.”
The 1929 stock market crash — which some well-heeled guests witnessed from the hotel — eventually led to the property’s closure. As the Great Depression dragged on, owners sold the mammoth vacant building to the Jesuits, who needed a new seminary. As part of their renovation, the group removed some of the hotel’s more opulent details and cemented over its public access to natural springs. A private college then bought the building, but ceased operations in 1983.
Although the structure was deemed a National Historic Landmark, its restoration and renovation dragged on for decades, and decay and neglect took a toll. In 2003, the Indiana legislature created a historic hotel and casino district, paving the way for the revival of West Baden Springs Hotel and its sister property, French Lick Springs Hotel, both of which are now part of French Lick Resort.
West Baden Springs Hotel reopened in 2007, with modern amenities alongside décor that harkens back to a different century. Now part of the National Trust of Historic Preservation’s Historic Hotels of America, West Baden leans into the nostalgia of a bygone era, even if none of today’s guests have memories of its heyday a century ago. Guests can take self-guided or guided history tours from folks at Indiana Landmarks and wander through small museum displays throughout the resort that detail the hotel's past.
What's Nearby
West Baden is just down the street from French Lick, Ind., and French Lick Springs Hotel. Free, on-demand shuttles run back and forth, making it easy to head to French Lick’s casino, restaurants and shops. (In fact, the shuttles will go anywhere in town except the liquor store and the water park.)
Ample parking is available if you choose to drive yourself, and the walk is flat and straightforward. Train service occasionally runs the 1.5 miles between the resorts, offering a mode of transport that nods to West Baden’s past.
French Lick’s small downtown, across from French Lick Springs Hotel, features several shops and restaurants. 33 Brick Street is a bar and restaurant festooned with memorabilia of NBA great Larry Bird, who grew up in French Lick.
What to Do
Outdoor activities are the resort’s real draw, including golf on two nine-hole courses and two 18-hole courses designed by Pete Dye. There are more than 12 miles of wooded hiking and walking trails, plus archery and sporting clay ranges, and horseback riding.
For those who prefer more leisurely outdoor activities, there are horse-drawn carriage rides, outdoor swimming pools with cabanas and lounge chairs, and gardens with paths for strolling. Both hotels have large porches with rocking chairs for taking in the views, and blankets and outdoor heaters are available to ward off the chill. Both also offer large, full-service spas with treatments using the area’s natural mineral spring water.
While folks don’t arrive in French Lick by train as they once did, it’s possible to take a short train ride once you get there. Choose from scenic tours through the Hoosier National Forest, tasting rides with food and wine pairings, or themed Polar Express outings during the holidays.
Where to Eat
Combined, the two resorts have a dozen different restaurants, including coffee shops, pubs, a kid-friendly pizza joint and several fine-dining spots.
One of French Lick’s claims to fame is being the first place to serve tomato juice as a drink. In 1917, chef Louis Perrin ran out of oranges and made the swap. So when you dine at 1875: The Steakhouse, you’ll get a shot of tomato juice to start the meal.
Breakfasts include house-made granola, eggs as you like and other classics. The town of French Lick has a few independent restaurants great for a quick bite, and grabbing sandwiches for a picnic on a hiking trail is a pleasant way to pass the time.
How to Get A Good Night's Sleep
The hotel rooms have been remodeled with a Gilded Age aesthetic, supported by modern amenities, like plush linens and room-darkening blinds. Choose a room with a balcony that looks out on the famed West Baden domed atrium.
French Lick Springs Hotel is the larger of the two, but the West Baden dome — with its Rookwood lobby fireplace and cozy library — makes it the place you’ll want to linger.
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