I grew up in mountain towns in Idaho. And though my love of the Great Smoky Mountains has been well-documented, those mountains always feel like something completely different than the mountains where I was raised.

Then, I went to Highlands, N.C., 4,118 feet in the Blue Ridge Mountains. And that felt like a mountain town. It’s a place where the outdoors take center stage, with winding roads and roadside waterfalls, crisp air and starry nights due to the lack of light pollution. But while everyone may have mud on their hiking boots and hiking poles in their all-wheel drive cars, it’s also somewhere people dress for dinner, where you can have a four-course meal and a plush hotel room after your day of adventuring. 

In the 11 months after my first visit, I returned to Highlands three times, each one to experience it in a different season. 

Because Highlands is a remote mountain town, I’ve noticed limited cell service across most of the area. Download Google Maps for offline use or bring an old-fashioned paper atlas to keep your exploring safe and easy. I loved the forced disconnection the limited service offered me. I was focused on what I was seeing and doing — even if that meant reading a novel in front of the fireplace in my hotel — and not on checking email.

Where to Stay

Like most mountain towns, Highlands boasts plenty of out-of-the-way cabins with stunning overlooks. But it also has more luxury hotels than seem possible in a town of just over 1,100 people. 

Old Edwards Inn & Spa, part of the Relais & Châteaux collection, is the best known of the options. The property is actually a collection of accommodations, from the original inn to freestanding cottages on a campus right off Main Street. There’s a spa on-site. And when I got snowed in on one trip, I was happy holing up in my suite, with an in-room fireplace and room service. 

Just down Main Street is Highlander Mountain House, a cozy English country house with impeccable décor (a must for wallpaper buffs) and one of the town’s best restaurants. The team who owns HMH also owns Outpost Inn, a refurbished motel-style property a few blocks away. 

My room at Outpost Inn had a working typewriter (it’s like they knew me), a fireplace, a small kitchenette and high ceilings that let in lots of light. The wine bar and coffee shop in the Outpost Inn lobby are open to the public, and they’re a great place to get some work done if you must. 

Where to Eat 

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Apologies to the folks driving behind me on North 4th Street when I saw a “pastry boutique” sign hanging on a charming white house. I didn’t fully know what that meant, but I stopped to find out. Once inside, I saw Edelweiss Pastry Boutique’s edible works of art. There were elaborate mushrooms with chocolate stems and glossy caps, plus birds’ nests and other fanciful creations. 

For dinner, I won’t skip the Ruffed Grouse Tavern, inside HMH. The restaurant makes menu items with seasonal produce (I loved the summer berry and goat cheese salad), and its wine and spirits lists are long and varied. Bluegrass brunch is a popular Sunday reservation. 

Mountain Fresh Grocery is my go-to for picnic and hiking lunch supplies, thanks to its family-friendly pizza kitchen and its big cheese selection. (Nearby One Wicker Cheese Co. also has a nice variety.) 

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What to Do

One of the charms of Highlands is that there’s a hike for every level in and near Nantahala National Forest. If you want a challenge, stop at the Highland Hiker for any gear you forgot. Then set out to take in nearly 12 miles on the Yellow Mountain Fire Tower trail, or head to the more moderate Chinquapin Mountain trail. But if you’re not up for all that, there are short walks and even waterfalls visible from overlooks. Favorites include Bridal Veil Falls and Dry Falls. 

One of the reasons I initially wanted to go to Highlands was The Bascom, a visual arts center, school and museum. In addition to shopping from the gallery and watching artists in action, I loved walking through the six-acre campus, which includes themed walking trails, a sculpture garden and a babbling brook. Even the arts are outdoors in Highlands. 

For more indoorsy types, shopping is a pastime. You can breathe in the mountain air as you walk along Main Street, which is dotted with small boutiques offering high-end apparel, jewelry and home décor. Bazaar Barn, which is technically in Cashiers but a quick drive, is a second-hand home décor spot unlike anything I’ve ever seen, with Schumacher draperies, chinoiserie and antique furniture. Prices are bargains for designer goods (but still premium), and the proceeds support nonprofits in the area.

And, because Highlands is best as a driving destination, it’s easy to bring your treasures home. Highlands is about 300 miles east of Nashville, with several scenic driving routes. Take I-40 through the Smokies or south through Chattanooga. If you’re willing to add a little extra time, take the northern route and stop in Cherokee, N.C., home of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians. If you choose to fly, the Asheville airport is 1.5 hours away. You’ll have to rent a car from there, as there are no ride-hailing services or taxis available once you’re in Highlands.

Highlands is 12 miles from Cashiers, another affluent mountain town. The two communities flow well together, particularly when you’re searching for secondhand shopping or waterfalls.