Nobody is rushing at The Greenbrier Resort. From the moment you drive past the gate and onto the manicured property, you’ll notice it. This is a place where people don’t walk or run, they stroll — they admire. Even with its extensive schedule of events and activities, the pace of The Greenbrier is that of a different time. In fact, much of The Greenbrier is a throwback to a bygone era.
Billed as “America’s Resort,” The Greenbrier is almost as old as the country. And just like America, it has changed over time. Built in 1778, The Greenbrier — in all its incarnations and under various names — has long been a draw for the privileged and powerful. When railroad service started between The Greenbrier and Washington, D.C., the resort became a gathering place for politicians and even served as the secret bunker and fallout shelter for Congress during the Cold War. (Trains still run to D.C. three times a week, but it is no longer a secure location. You can — and should — take a tour of the underground bunker.) Professional golfer Jack Nicklaus also helped transform the resort’s courses, which have hosted Ryder Cup and PGA Seniors tournaments over the years.
During World War II, the hotel was used as a hospital. When it reopened as a resort, it needed a complete overhaul. The then-owners (railroad company CSX Corporation) called on celebrity designer Dorothy Draper to work her interior design magic. Even half a century later, Dorothy’s signature maximalist style — with bright colors and intentional pattern clashing — are all over the resort, and the lower boutique level features one of her stores. While some design elements in the hotel may be a little dated, Draper’s aesthetic is still contemporary, modern and absolutely joyous. It’s hard to be in a bad mood in a place exploding with colors and patterns in every direction.
Of course, The Greenbrier has also been updated many times over the years. What would a modern resort be without WiFi and pickleball? U.S. Sen. Jim Justice of West Virginia purchased the resort in 2009 and has been making regular updates, including constructing a stained-glass-adorned chapel (ideal for weddings in this bucolic setting) in 2015. Because the resort is so large and has undergone numerous changes, you’ll likely encounter some areas in need of TLC and others under construction, no matter when you arrive.
The best way to experience The Greenbrier is to lean into its slower pace, enjoy a stroll through its grounds, and take time to notice the myriad details at every turn.
What’s nearby
New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, which is the newest national park (no. 63), is about an hour’s drive west of The Greenbrier. It’s a destination for whitewater rafting, rock climbing and fishing. Or you can take one of the scenic drives en route to or from The Greenbrier.
What to do
The Greenbrier schedule is packed with more than 55 activities, from horseback riding and falconry to spa treatments and bowling. There are two public swimming pools and four golf courses for visitors to enjoy.
Two essential activities are free: The lower-level Casino Club, opened in 2010, is available only to resort guests and features The Greenbrier’s signature bright colors, iconic wallpaper and bold carpeting. At 10 p.m., ballroom dancers descend the sweeping staircase to the casino to perform “The Greenbrier Waltz,” and guests enjoy a free glass of Champagne for an evening toast. Since 1930, the hotel has also offered free afternoon tea — with sweets — in the Upper Lobby.
In addition to enjoying all the planned activities, you can explore the surrounding 11,000 acres, admire the landscape and décor, peruse the on-site art galleries and shops, and more.
Where to eat
There are more than 20 restaurants in the resort, from the casual and retro Draper’s Café and ice cream shop to the upscale Prime 44 West steakhouse. Sam Snead’s is the post-golf pick, and the main dining room is buzzing at brunch. Room service, poolside snacks and a smoothie shop near the gym are other options.
How to get a good night’s sleep
There are 710 rooms at The Greenbrier, and no two are exactly the same. Some are traditional hotel rooms in the inn, while others are in estate homes and cottages. The latter are houses with kitchens and multiple bedrooms for families or groups of friends. Accommodations feature bold décor and vibrant colors. Many rooms offer views of the surrounding Allegheny Mountains, while others look over the resort’s pristine landscaping.
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