Sperry’s: Where Old School Is Cool

Fifty years ago, Nashville’s fine dining scene was, in a word, spare. 

Mario’s and Jimmy Kelly’s Steakhouse held sway. Julian’s had recently opened, offering haute French cuisine. At 5109 Harding Road, first home to Sue Thomas’ Garden Gate Garden Center, a popular restaurant called The Brass Scales had fallen prey to financial woes and folded. Not content to see failure, partner Houston Thomas and his brother Dick purchased the place from the other partners. Together, they set out to create a singular beef and seafood restaurant that melded the moody mystique of an Old English tavern with the warmth and vitality of the South. In March 1974, Sperry’s (named for the brothers’ great-grandfather Burton Sperry) opened its doors. It quickly became beloved for its well-marbled steaks, pristine martinis and hallmark salad bar — the first in the city.

In the life of a restaurant, there are ebbs and flows. After 25 years, Sperry’s had become a bit well-worn, its owners older and weary. In 2000, Houston’s son Al and his wife Trish bought the business with the intention of giving it a refresh while keeping it the same — a fine line to tread. To that end, they have been extraordinarily successful. Now, as the restaurant celebrates 50 years, Sperry’s stellar reputation reaches far beyond the Belle Meade community it anchors. Across the city, across the generations, Sperry’s is a go-to for date nights, family dinners, happy hour meet-ups and celebrations of all kinds. Old school is still cool.

We sat down with Al and Trish to get some of their thoughts as they reflect on the restaurant’s history and legacy.

A LIFE IN HOSPITALITY

AL: I’ve been looking over family pictures, trying to piece together our story. This life in hospitality didn’t happen in a vacuum! My parents loved to entertain. There was always a party. People genuinely enjoyed their warmth and hospitality. Opening a restaurant was a natural progression. I legitimately got into the business starting at age 14. It became my path. Before helming Sperry’s in 2000, I had more than gotten my feet wet. I’ve worked in all capacities in many restaurants over the years. It gave me a rich background in the good, the bad and the ugly of the biz. It’s in my DNA — my running joke is that I bleed au jus. 

TRISH: Al’s been reading Danny Meyer’s book, Setting the Table. It talks about making eye contact, smiling, presenting a welcoming attitude — things that seem obvious in the restaurant business, but are not always in play. And that has been at the heart of Sperry’s, creating that experience of Southern hospitality.

ATTENTION TO QUALITY

AL: It is simple, in a way. I don’t want what’s a “good deal” — I want the good stuff! We have visited the ranches where we get our beef, and we can serve those meats with confidence and pride. Always. That is key: There is no quality without consistency. Our customers count on it.

TRISH: There’s critical attention to ingredients and details. Al has enough hands-on kitchen time to be a certified chef! He knows and understands the recipes. I remember when he worked over six weeks, tweaking the French onion soup.

AL: That attention also means being open to some needed changes. When we brought Bob Tappan on board as our culinary director/director of operations, he helped fine-tune procedures. He is also responsible for redoing the crab cake recipe, a move that could’ve gotten huge pushback from our longtime customers. However, I believe — at 98% crab meat — ours are now the best in town.

FOREVER FAVORITES

AL: When we took over, I wanted to make subtle changes with lighting and pictures, but I wanted to maintain the integrity of the menu. I remember Mrs. Fred Harvey telling me, “This is food I can understand.” There’s no gimmick. 

TRISH: If you were to come to Sperry’s for the first time, I’d recommend starting with our escargots. Followed by the salad bar, of course. Our green goddess dressing is always a favorite.

AL: It’s like the Baskin-Robbins of salad bars — 31 items. We don’t want to overcomplicate it. Right now, I’m partial to the roasted garlic vinaigrette.

TRISH: The bleu cheese-stuffed filet is our No. 1 seller. When Prince William dined with us, he ordered and loved it, and we named it after him. Our twice-baked potatoes are truly twice baked. You can’t find that just anywhere.

AL: For dessert, you’ve got to have our bananas Foster, prepared tableside. Finish the night with our Cafe Sperry’s. Made with brandy, Kahlúa, 151 and a dollop of fresh whipped cream, it is dangerously good.

CHERISHED MEMORIES

TRISH: There are so many special moments. In my mind, I can see Al’s mother and me sipping frozen Brandy Alexanders together and just enjoying the community of this place.

AL: If we speak about community, this story comes to mind. When we were hit by the historic 2010 flood, we were trapped in Bellevue and couldn’t get to the restaurant, which had flooded, for five days. When we finally got there, we were stunned. A contractor friend and longtime Sperry’s patron had his trailer truck in the driveway. He, along with many of our customers, had pulled everything out of the restaurant. We were overwhelmed by these kindnesses. And because of that, we were able to reopen in 14 days.

TRISH: It also comes down to our staff, some who have been with us for decades.

AL: Yes, Connie, Scott and Jeff. Talk about quality and consistency. They are our mainstays. Our family.

LOOKING AHEAD

AL: This spring, we’ll be opening a second Sperry’s Mercantile, in the former Shoney’s building in Bellevue. The first one, opened in 2015, has been a resounding success. People love being able to pick up our special cuts of steak, chops, fish, seasonings and dressings to prepare at home. Our daughter, Cate Buchanon, will be running it. And because the building is large enough, we are also launching Cafe Sperry’s coffee shop there, which will feature a drive-thru service.

But we want to continue being the place that provides that experience, makes that memory, creates that story. So if someone asks you about Sperry’s, you can start by saying, “It’s our tradition.”