When local hero Julia Sullivan contemplated where to open her second project to accompany her successful Germantown seafood restaurant, Henrietta Red, she looked about 90 minutes down Interstate 24 to a place that has long held a special place in her heart, Sewanee, Tenn. Her connection to the small town and The University of the South dates back to before Sullivan was even born.

“My dad was class of 1969, and we spent time with family friends in Sewanee and Monteagle when I was a kid,” she recalls. “As an adult, I’ve enjoyed visiting the area for hiking and swimming with my dogs. A friend sent me the listing for the building, and I ignored it at first. But the second time she sent it, I thought, ‘Why not take a look?’ Now that I’m here, it’s been so special to reconnect with the area and so many folks who knew my parents, way back when. The sense of community is awesome, and it’s a manageable distance from Nashville.”

Blazing a Trail

Her new restaurant is Judith Tavern, named after Judith Ward Lineback, the first woman to matriculate at the university — the same year that Sullivan’s father graduated. Located on the edge of campus in a building that once housed the university’s steam laundry service and then a succession of popular restaurants, Judith Tavern is more of a cousin than a sister restaurant to Henrietta Red.

“If you know me and you know Henrietta Red, you can tell the two are kindred, but it has a moodier vibe that I think is nice in the mountain landscape,” Julia explains. “The menu is less seafood-focused and a bit more approachable, but we still have a nice selection of fun small plates to start, great cocktails, and, of course, we had to have oysters!”

Judith offers a variety of seating options, including a dozen spots along the marble bar where patrons can enjoy a properly made cocktail or a glass of wine from the well-curated list, along with some oysters or small plates. The front dining room features tall windows that allow the soft mountain light to illuminate cozy romantic tables and offer a view of twinkling stars on a cold winter night. The back room has high ceilings, exposed ductwork and structural beams to remind guests of the former use of the space as a laundry facility.

JUDITH_120224_EmilyDorio__1123.jpg

All Are Welcome

Julia designed a menu that walks a fine line between affordable fare for starving students and more elevated options suitable for local foodies, culinary tourists or Family Weekend when dad is picking up the tab. Entrées are split between land and sea — with steak, smoked chicken and a surprising German-inspired pork coppa with sauerkraut and mustard, listed alongside trout and other fish specials. A great tavern has to offer a memorable burger, and Judith’s version is a standout, especially served with Julia’s crispy, fluffy french fries and garlic aioli.

So far, Judith has been a hit with locals and visitors alike. “The reception has been great!” Julia gushes. “We’ve been busy and enjoy seeing local community members, folks from the university, students and visitors to the area. We opened just before the holidays so I’m excited to see how spring and summer are this year. The entire menu has done well, but depending on the night, the bestsellers are sourdough bread with chili oil, Gulf oysters, celery salad, whole trout, mushroom pappardelle and chocolate pie.”

JUDITH_120224_EmilyDorio__811.jpg

Commute and Community

Sullivan hasn’t taken her eye off operations at Henrietta Red, but she is confident in the abilities of the fantastic staff she has assembled over the past eight years of operation. For now, she’s spending more time on the mountain, and it’s always a treat to see her walking her dog around town as she becomes a wonderful addition to the community. 

“My focus has been in Sewanee for the opening and the holidays,” she says. “I am lucky to be spending a lot of time here, working in the kitchen and on the floor. I head back to Nashville about two days a week at the moment, but I imagine that will be a bit more fluid as spring approaches.”