One of the world’s most beloved flavors starts with the cacao tree, native to South America. Archaeologists have found evidence of its use in a fermented quaff as early as 1900 B.C. The word “chocolate,” etymologists believe, is derived from the Nahuatl “xocolatl,” meaning “bitter drink.” Spanish conquistadors marveled at cacao beans — which Aztecs concocted into a frothed beverage served in gold goblets to Montezuma — and brought them back to Spain. Reception for the cacao-infused drink was poor until Spanish friars sweetened it — a game changer. It became a must-have, first for king and court, before the pursuit of chocolate took hold throughout Europe. The year 1760 marked the debut of Chocolaterie Lombart, claimed to be the first chocolate shop to open in France.

With the Industrial Revolution, people found ways to more easily process and produce chocolate — making it into something to eat as well as drink. The creation of treats such as milk chocolate bars, semi-sweet bonbons and dark chocolate-coated caramels captured the imagination and tastebuds of the masses. This instilled a love of the bean that persists to this day, while propelling the craft to more refined, delectable heights. 

Tempered Fine Chocolates

Temper, temper! For a chocolatier, “temper” refers not to the flare of emotion, but to science. The method of melting, stirring and cooling chocolate to specific temperatures yields a product that feels ultra-smooth, looks glossy and hardens to the proper snap. Tempering is a crucial step in making superb confections. At the Tempered Fine Chocolates shop and cafe in Germantown, you’ll find a selection of gorgeous truffles, bars, clusters and more — and a chocolatier studiously tempering pans of chocolate behind the counter.

“We import all of our chocolate from Switzerland, which we believe is the finest,” says owner and chocolatier Angelica Clark. “And while we formerly used a mechanical process for tempering, we prefer the more intimate hand-stirring.”

Angelica worked in event design and hospitality before assuming ownership of Tempered in 2019. Haylee Swartz, head chocolatier, had come on board a year earlier. 

“I couldn’t do this without her,” Angelica says. “Haylee’s work is so exceptional that we sent her to Switzerland in 2022 to further her studies. She is now a certified master chocolatier.”

The two women work closely together regarding flavor profiles. Angelica keeps a dream notebook filled with ideas and inspiration. Haylee is the guide, having the final say on what ingredients will be compatible and delicious. Seasonal themes come into play too. For the month of March, Haylee has created St. Patrick’s Day-inspired confections: Jameson whiskey caramels in milk chocolate, Guinness chocolate cake in dark chocolate, and Lucky Charms truffles in white chocolate.

Tempered also offers a number of ways to enjoy its chocolates. With its tin ceiling, cafe tables, and gilt mirrors and lighting, the shop has an of-a-time Parisian ambience. It’s a charming place to stop in for a beverage and hand-crafted treat — like some hot chocolate, coffee or red wine to savor with a coconut almond bar, coffee milk chocolate truffles or shards of toasted sesame dark chocolate “glass.” Thursdays through Sundays from 6-7 p.m., the cafe kicks off The Green Hour, serving flights of absinthe paired with chocolates. 

“What we do is unique in our city,” says Angelica. She points to a shelf of traditional absinthe fountains. “We set up the cafe tables with these,” she says. “We also have all the absinthe that is legally available!”

Chocolate pairing experiences with either whiskeys or wines are also available by reservation or walk-in. Tempered is proud to partner with local businesses Pennington Distilling Co., Leiper’s Fork Distillery, Belle Meade Winery and Americano Lounge, whose wares are featured in the pairings and as ingredients in specialty combination bars. From time to time, truffle-making classes are offered.

The company is on an upward trajectory. Angelica has updated branding while improving packaging for shipping to a wider audience. Tempered has established a presence at the Nashville International Airport and a few local boutique hotels. Looking ahead, the women see the need for a larger production space. However, they are content to continue offering the pleasures of the old-world shop for their guests.

Poppy & Peep

Atop Herron Drive, the tiny Poppy & Peep shop is bright and sunny, imbued with a playful vibe. When you step inside, your eyes will widen in childlike wonder at the array of confections. One display case is filled with hand-painted bonbons that look like jewels. Another boasts piped meringues, dark chocolate-dipped honeycombs, candied orange peels, and tubes of caramels in compelling flavor profiles. Arranged on shelves are inclusion bars in a variety of colors and textures, along with containers of chocolate-coated espresso beans, mendiants and sugar-crusted pâtes de fruits. Across the counter, a glass warmer spins rich drinking chocolate. For Mark and Evane Stoner, this family-owned chocolate microfactory is a dream come true.

Like father, like daughter: Mark (aka Poppy) and Evane (aka Peep) share similar traits that created this dream. Both are entrepreneurial by nature and possess more than a sweet tooth. “More like sweet teeth,” Evane says with a laugh. “We always loved to visit candy stores.” They also have complementary talents. “Evane is the artist,” says Mark. “I am into the structure of the business and the marketing.” 

Their collaboration began when Mark found a franchise opportunity and called his daughter to ask: “Do you want to go into the chocolate business with me?” Evane responded with a resounding “yes.” In the end, that business didn’t suit them, and they set out to build their own brand. 

“We attended the Chocolate Academy in Chicago,” Mark says. “More than learning the craft, it gave us a roadmap to define ourselves. We learned how to focus small, and that initially was on bonbons.”

They found their space in a new development, assembled equipment and began practicing the chocolatier’s art. In February 2020, they launched Poppy & Peep. Those early days in the midst of the pandemic were fraught with tough lessons — “chocolate drama,” Evane calls it. But they persevered. They brought on experienced chocolatier and confectioner Kristy Fogle. “When Kristy came on board, our trials had less error,” Mark says. “She is our implementer.”

“For many of our confections, we use Valrhona and Cacao Barry chocolates,” adds Evane. “I originally wanted to do everything bean-to-bar, but that was not possible, cost-wise.”

Bean-to-bar is a labor-intensive process of micro-batch chocolate-making, using sustainably grown single-source cacao beans to start. The steps to roast, grind, conch and temper yield bars whose flavors tell a unique story of place. Currently, Poppy & Peep offers four hand-crafted bars representing Haiti, Belize, Ghana and Guatemala. 

Mark, Evane and Kristy have compatible goals for the company. Mark is looking at profitability — how to scale the business. That includes a corporate subscription service for gifting. Kristy is looking to combat what she calls the “summer pain point”: humidity and heat. Evane has a dream of getting their bonbons into an airline’s first-class service, while also going into mass production of quality confections at the lower end. And the trio is always excited by custom work and collaborations — more ways to share their chocolate love.

Ode to Joy

Even though Marissa “Ris” Joy Wheeler had long been immersed in food and hospitality, becoming a chocolatier was never part of her plan. Over a 10-year period in Dallas, she explored a number of avenues, working in restaurant kitchens under great chefs, as well as independently catering parties and events. She thrived in those creative, high-energy environments. When Ris moved to Nashville for a position that ultimately didn’t work out, she took a job at a chocolate shop and cafe as a stop-gap. It was fun, different, and opened her up to a new world. When a head chocolatier unexpectedly left, Ris was asked to step up and design some recipes.

“The accidental chocolatier,” she laughs. “But I plunged into the process and found that I loved it. I became adept at hand-tempering. My background in cooking helped inform the flavor profiles. In mid-2019, I decided to go out on my own — start my own company.”

Ode to Joy is primarily an online retail and wholesale enterprise, its name drawing on Ris’ middle name, the uplifting Beethoven choral, and the simple joy that chocolate brings. You can order Ris’ products through the Made in TN gift shop and the Ode to Joy company website. Currently, she offers four bars in distinctive flavor combinations: blueberry lemon white chocolate, sea salted mint dark chocolate, coconut matcha dark chocolate and rosemary cayenne milk chocolate. It’s worth noting that both dark chocolate bars are vegan, and all four bars are gluten-free, soy-free and peanut-free. Ris prides herself on using only fair trade certified chocolate with minimal lecithin as a binder.

“I keep the product as clean as possible, while keeping it affordable,” she says.

Separately, Ris concocts medical-grade hemp-extract-infused bars (cannabis-free) she sells through The Turnip Truck. A new mother of twins, she has plans to introduce other confections, such as truffles that incorporate seasonal ingredients, to the Ode to Joy roster after the babies get a little older.

Her wine-and-chocolate pairing experience is popular with small groups and corporate team-building events. It is also a rewarding aspect of her business that taps into her spirit of catering and service. Ris partners with sommelier Lou Vargo of Toast & Taste to curate fun and memorable tasting events.

Ris creates her beautiful small-batch chocolates in a commercial kitchen that she shares with Jay Zubov of The Broth Stop. Their goal is to eventually open a shared retail shop so the public will have ready access to their artisanal wares. She plans to add other confections and chocolate combos to her stable of founding flavors.

“We all know the benefits of dark chocolate, how its antioxidants boost your health,” Ris says. “But I encourage you, no matter what kind of chocolate, to eat it with intention, gratitude and joy.”