Chef Robbie Wilson Returns to Nashville Fine Dining with Lion’s Share

Many local restaurant aficionados remember chef Robbie Wilson from his successful tenure in the early 2010s as culinary director overseeing M Street Hospitality’s restaurant portfolio, including Kayne Prime, Virago, Tavern and Whiskey Kitchen. A West Texas native, Wilson trained in fine dining under the tutelage of internationally renowned chefs like Thomas Keller, Michel Troisgros, Tom Colicchio and Nobu Matsuhisa.

After relocating to California, Wilson opened restaurants in Silicon Valley and San Francisco to rave reviews, earning a 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: California for his work at Bird Dog. He returned to Nashville in the summer of 2024 with two new restaurant concepts percolating in his mind.

The first, SuperNormal, is a modern reimagining of an old-school burger, hot dog and ice cream stand. This hip fast-casual spot opened in the heart of Sylvan Park at 104 45th Ave. N last May and operates seasonally, featuring a large, family-friendly turf patio and picnic tables.

Across the street, in the former home of the beloved McCabe Pub, sits Lion’s Share. An ode to Old World traditions cooked with modern mastery, the dark wood and stone building is reminiscent of an English lodge in the Cotswolds — an intentional choice by Wilson and his wife, Emily, to make the restaurant feel like a refuge for guests.

The atmosphere balances relaxation and engagement. The clubby lounge features crushed velvet seating and a calming color scheme, while the main dining rooms offer views of a massive open hearth — the centerpiece of both the kitchen and the menu. Fans of live-fire cooking can enjoy dinner and a show as chefs stoke logs, fan the flames and shovel glowing embers to add heat and flavor to every dish.

For a quieter experience, the side rooms offer privacy, while the dramatic Stag Room features marvels of taxidermy and also the most recognizable remaining piece of the former occupants: the familiar brick arches that divided the McCabe Pub dining room. To enhance the lived-in feel, the Wilsons scoured the internet and vintage sales for inexpensive art that feels like it has been hanging on the walls for decades, including a wall of dachshund paintings honoring their late family dog. Somewhat paradoxically, Lion’s Share feels like a new restaurant in an old building and an old restaurant in a new one at the same time.

The menu shares a similar sensibility with old-school tavern dishes amplified with unexpected international ingredients and gastronomic flair. The lounge offers a special menu of small plates that chef Wilson labels “picky bits,” such as a kanpachi and shiso “taco” featuring fish that has been aged to concentrate flavor. Honoring McCabe’s legacy, the bar menu includes an elevated burger and a “haute” dog named “The Frank.” Wilson also designed “duets” for the bar, pairing revolving specials with unique wines by the glass, using the Coravin preservation system to allow diners to experience interesting Old World and California wines without having to invest in an entire bottle. The cellar also features half bottles of many vintages to encourage pairing different wines during the course of a meal.

The top of the menu leans heavily into Wilson’s love of raw fish. The kanpachi reappears as an appetizer glazed with a reduction of its own bones and fermented Fresno peppers. Other starters include sea bream with Granny Smith apples and bigeye tuna with a briny caper and shellfish sauce.

Beyond the raw bar, most of the menu is kissed by the hearth’s flame. Grilled baby leeks and heirloom carrots showcase inherent sweetness, while firekeepers cook delicate Appalachian trout and whole flounder with precision. The luxurious pork belly is a standout, spiced with vindaloo and served with sour labneh to cut through the richness.

Beef cuts, including a Denver steak and a dry-aged bone-in strip for two, are perfect for ember grilling. Even the dessert menu utilizes the hearth, featuring roasted pineapple, embered marshmallows and a smoked banana that’s part of an inventive take on tres leches.

It should come as little surprise that more than half the menu at Lion’s Share touches the fire, because above all else, the Wilsons want to delight guests with their literal and figurative brand of warmth and hospitality.