Tux Timing

Twice is nice

Published On: September 01, 2009

There comes a time in every young gentleman's life when he should stop renting formal wear and buy his own tuxedo—or more accurately his set of "dinner clothes." Black-tie formal wear dates back to 1860 when Henry Poole & Co. designed (for the then Prince of Wales, later Edward VII) an informal alternative to the white-tie dinner dress standard of the day. There are variations on the etymology of the term "tuxedo" to refer to the traditional black-tie, the most popular being the association with Tuxedo Park, New York and its abundance of supper clubs (to which men wore black-tie dinner suits).

According to The Black Tie Guide, the tuxedo association originated at the Autumn Ball, when one patron asked why another gentleman's dinner jacket had no tails, and the answer was that the gentleman in question was from Tuxedo Park. Tuxedo mistakenly became attached to the attire and not the man.

Regardless, in the United States "tuxedo" typically refers to the traditional black-tie dinner suit. In Britain it is called a dinner jacket, and in some French circles it is called a smoking jacket. Stateside, smoking jackets are more old-school lounge wear, and dinner jacket typically refers to the white, and hopefully of silk or linen, jacket worn to formal dinners in warmer climes or in the summer season. The traditional black-tie is also sometimes referred to as the semi-formal or formal dinner suit. (In some circles semi-formal means coat and tie and formal means tuxedo; in others tuxedos are semi-formal and tails are formal. In some parts of greater Davidson County, formal means shoes, so know your context.)

So now that you're hip to the lingo, let's get you dressed. When is the best time to buy your dinner suit? Most gentlemen should buy at least two in their lifetime: the first when they stop growing up, and the second when they stop growing out. And there is expected to be a period of renting between the two.

The purchase of one's own tuxedo may be seen as an investment. But, with formal rental rates ranging from $90 to $200, a good tuxedo will actually pay for itself in very few outings, dry cleaning not included. Even if one does own one's dinner clothes, travelers may opt to call ahead and rent on location to avoid packing, pressing and cleaning. Some formal companies in larger cities may offer hotel drop-off and collection. It never hurts to ask.

Depending on maturity and growth spurts, mothers should buy their young gentlemen's first tuxedo either their senior year in high school or before they set off for college. Despite the uniquely masculine nature of the tuxedo, no one I interviewed reported ever experiencing a father taking a son shopping for formal wear. Read into that whatever you will.

Senior prom is generally the igniting spark for that first tuxedo purchase. Jeffrey Ellis of Macy's in Green Hills reports that the majority of their tuxedo sales do go to young men (with their mother's credit card), although he has noticed a trend towards black suits instead which are much more versatile and can be worn to proms first and hang in reserve for weddings, funerals and interviews. This first tuxedo may make its virgin outing at the prom, and grow steadily sluttier during the ensuing four years of fraternity formals, college balls and other formal events. The first four years after college will also see a greater than average incident of formal events as the young people and their friends pair off and host a variety of southern style weddings, even if the modern first wedding is trending to black-tie optional.

Those same four years post-college witness a social growth spurt as young men find their way in a new town or in new circles and begin to establish themselves in the social scene. Nashville, in particular, is known for its abundance of formal events, and between those and weddings, it's not uncommon for a young man to spend half his summer Saturdays (and if he's lucky, Sunday mornings) in black-tie.

Those first four years (or for some of us, eight) out of college see a second growth spurt, this one around the midsection, as touch football and afternoon workouts give way to afternoons at work and beers out afterward. Even the best college bodies over time begin to look less A&F and more ATE. Nashville may be known for formal affairs, but it's also known for deep frying with a side of butter. There will come a time when a no-longer-quite-so-young man cannot fit into his tuxedo, which by this time is becoming a little frayed around the edges anyway. (Honestly, there are only so many times you can climb walls or jump into the pool at the after party before it begins to show on your clothes. Trust me.) It is perfectly acceptable for this man to leave the worn and tight-fitting tuxedo in the closet and begin renting the jacket and pants for a while. Once the man has settled, for better or for worse, into the body shape he is likely to maintain indefinitely, it is time to buy that second "lifetime" dinner suit.

To make the dinner suit last, style is more important than substance. Quality fabrics, such as a variety of wools over synthetics, are important to be sure, but nothing makes a tuxedo less wearable than being out of fashion. If only for this reason, "stylish" or hip styles of the moment are best left to fleeting celebrities. Gentlemen of society should appreciate a classic line and lapel (and for that matter, label). Similarly, black ties should be of the bow variety. While long ties can be both fashionable and formal, it is easy to tread too far into a cynosure, and in formal situations a long tie can make a man look less elegant and more douchebag. If you need an unconventional tie to impress anybody, you will be impressing nobody.

If you do decide to go for the straight-tie look, be confident that you can carry it off. Depending on the event, a gentleman does not want to draw too much attention to himself as it is disrespectful to the host or hostess. The classic-only guideline does not typically apply to established artists, performing or otherwise. And in all cases, no hats save for top, and then consider a top coat as well.

Finally, as Imelda asked, what about the shoes? High-gloss patent leather is the official formal shoe for black-tie, but this has long given way to mere formal black. As long as the shoe is black, simple and can hold a strong shine, you're good. I'm told that this year has seen a preponderance of black velvet shoes with black-tie, for which I have no explanation (unless they're part of a new religion that will bring you to your knees). If you can wear them with confidence without looking like a ballet dancer, more power to you. The important thing is to find a suitable shoe that shines well and can be worn comfortably while standing for long periods of time. Also, consider if you can dance in them.

Now you have the what. Here's the where.

There are several places in town to shop for formal wear. Remember that the dinner suit is still just that: a suit. Meaning jacket and pants, only. Shirts, cumberbunds, vests, ties, shoes and jewelry are all sold separately. Some stores will have nicer suits; others, better shirts. If you're crafting your formal look for the next decade, don't feel that you have to purchase everything from one shop.

Jos. A. Bank sells tuxedos in store or via catalog for $550 to $800, and sometimes at buy-one-get-one-free, so inquire about possible sales. Dinner/tuxedo jacket separates list for $395 with occasional sales at $299 with free pants thrown into the bargain. Patent-leather tux shoes are available for $145, or the laced ("jazz") style at $155.

Macy's locations have variable stock. The Macy's Men's store in San Francisco occupies its own city block and has a wide range of couture and formal wear. The Macy's in the Mall at Green Hills may have fewer choices than San Francisco or New York, but it still carries quality tuxedo labels, including Calvin Klein. Jeffrey Ellis is an experienced formalwear sales person at the Green Hills Macy's and is happy to assist the first-time buyer. Tuxedos typically run around $550, but sales of 40% or even 50% off are common.

Men's Warehouse sells their own label of worsted wool tuxedos in store and online for around $300. Men's Warehouse typically handles more formal-wear rentals than sales (and has a national policy of not selling previously worn/rented garments). Tux shoes: $90.

Bittner's Formal Wear has long been the Belle Meade go-to for black tie and tails rentals (well, since Mr. Moon closed up shop in... what? The early '80s?). Bittner's also has a variety of tuxedo styles available for purchase ranging anywhere from $250 to $750. Considering that tuxedo rentals can run from $90 to $180, buying is a bargain. Tailcoats are nearly impossible to find for purchase in Nashville, but Bittner's can special order for $400 (tailcoat rental is about $130).

Bittner's also holds a sale each February of previously worn (i.e., rented) formal wear and should be considered for the cash-strapped or stain-prone (or rough-and-tumble fraternity type). Save the fashionable investment for the second time around. Bittner's annual sale is also an excellent opportunity to pick up the tail coat or white dinner jacket you might wear rarely, but you'll have a good chance of picking it up for less than you would pay to rent it once (which would still be a previously worn garment anyway).

Levy's in Green Hills is really the quality standard for conservative, fashionable gentlemen. Harry Webster will have 40 years of experience in this field come November and knows the proper way to dress a man. Levy's carries lines of ready-made dinner clothes ranging from $795 to $2,295 and works with three companies for custom wear, which typically run $950 to $2,500 to craft. Ready-made designers include Armani and Zegna. Of course, Levy's also carries an array of vests, shoes, ties (including white-satin bow ties suitable for such affairs), jewelry and pocket squares. Levy's selection of formal wear shirts is extensive and ranges from the classic to the fashion forward.

The social season is well underway. Check your calendar, or your waistline, and see if it is time for you to invest in looking your best. You know how, and you know where.

Now all you have to do is learn to tie your own tie.

by Wilson Hardcastle