A new New York

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Published On: September 01, 2009

by Marilee Spanjian

When kids get older, it's not so easy to entice them to spend their limited summer vacation at home. We've learned to plan a rendezvous with them and foot the bill. But this year, our discretionary income is a tad tight. So when I suggested to my husband we gather the kids in New York City for a two-week holiday, he looked at me like I was crazy. Big kids equals bigger budget. A rollaway cot at the end of two double beds in a single hotel room doesn't cut it if your goal is happy memories—at least not with our kids' ages—19 to 24.

"Don't worry. I'll figure out a way to do it for less," I said. "Just give me a budget." He did and I freaked until I began my research. First priority was cheap airfare. Try $235 round trip non-stop on American Airlines from Nashville to LaGuardia Airport. Second, accommodations. I scoured vrbo.com, plugging in my preferred locations and number of beds and baths to find an appropriate vacation rental by owner. Compared to hotel space and cost, this is the best way if you're staying in one location for more than two days and your goal is to save money without sacrificing comfort and privacy.

The first eight nights, I paid $200 nightly for a two-bedroom, one-bath apartment at the corner of West 53rd Street and 9th Avenue (within walking distance of Central Park and Time Square). Since my 21-year-old daughter was already living in the city doing a summer internship at Marie Claire magazine, it was just my 19-year-old son and me. Then, for the last four nights when my husband, oldest daughter and her boyfriend flew in, we moved into a $350 per night new three-bedroom, three-full bath, 1,500-square-foot condo in an eco-green building (music to my ears) in Battery Park on the edge of Tribeca. There was a full-time doorman and concierge as well as a fabulous pool and gym. The exact same size unit is currently on the market for around $1.5 million. Yeah, I scored big kudos.

Honestly, I could have spent less. Studio apartments rent for around $150 in great locations, but my son, who lives and goes to school in Scotland, is a slob. The minute he unzips his suitcase, his clothes, books, shoes and papers explode in all directions. He also talks in his sleep, plays his guitar (yes, he carries it back and forth) and Skypes his U.K. friends at odd hours, including his new girlfriend from Wales—all within ear shot.

Compromise

To make it work, we made concessions. For example, the two-bedroom unit was a walk-up without a doorman, front desk or security guard. There was no room service, the towels didn't match (a pet peeve of mine) and there weren't blackout blinds for the windows. However, the apartment was charming with wood floors, white walls, two queen beds with great mattresses and a very clean tiled bath.

For $150 more, the second apartment was a vast improvement. We had new furniture, towels, pillows, sheets and a completely equipped gourmet kitchen. Did I mention flat screens with wireless access in every room? The only two negatives were no blackout blinds and the building wasn't centrally located. Still, the subway was three blocks away and just 10 minutes from Soho (where my daughter's been living) and 20 minutes up to Central Park.

Adapting

Normally, I love to cook on vacation. I planned to create memorable meals in New York. Mike Martino, a newly transplanted Chicagoan whom I interviewed for an NFocus' urban dwelling article, passed on a list prepared by his friend of great food shops in the city. I'm embarrassed to admit it, but I didn't cook once. His list included Murray's Cheese Shop on Bleeker, Sullivan Bakery at 533 West 47th (I walked by planning to go back), Il Buco at 46 Bond Street for olive oil and vinegar they import from their Italian groves, and even Union Square Farmer's Market, supposedly the best of the best. I didn't even slap together a PB & J. Next trip, I'm going to cook, and I'm going to find time to shop in these stores.

Eating out

Fortunately, my hobby of finding great restaurants panned out. I discovered local hangouts by crosschecking some of my favorite websites: timeout.com, yelp.com, zagat.com, tripadvisor.com and citysearch.com. Just remember to look for user reviews and find ones who travel or live in the city.

Entertainment

Besides eating out, we saw six plays—God of Carnage, Next to Normal, Crimes of the Heart, Ruined, The Little Mermaid and Krapp, 39. Only three were on Broadway. We chose them based on reviews, ticket availability and in one case, because my son, who's studying acting said, "Mom, we've got to see The Little Mermaid. Ariel is so hot."

It's possible to find cheap tickets, but it requires research and time. First, we checked out tdf.org, the site that lists what plays/performances typically have tickets at reduced rates. For those tickets, you must stand in line to hopefully buy reduced tickets to that night's performances. We also could have gone on ticketmaster.com, telecharge.com or stubhub.com (a favorite site of New Yorkers). Instead, we went to the box offices and bought the tickets right there. Student tickets—if available—are only $30 each. And you don't pay processing fees. For $15 cash per hour, we rented bikes. Okay, so we didn't hear the history lesson from the Pedicab guide or ride in a horse-drawn carriage; however, we experienced this city's green island like a local.

We also took in a harbor cruise. I've been to New York several times but this was a first. The only problem was no one wanted to spend the entire day on Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Besides, tickets to climb her crown are sold out until November. My husband found an independent excursion boat that only accepted cash. It sounds a little sketchy, but we did it anyway. For $12 per person, we, along with 250 people, took an hour adventure that included the Brooklyn Bridge, brought us close enough to the Statue of Liberty to realize her size and then to Ellis Island. It was perfect, although next time, I'll actually get off the boat and climb inside the statue and find my ancestors names inside the Ellis Island Immigration Museum.

One other stop made a lasting impression. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Model as a Muse exhibit was fascinating. Tickets were $20 for adults and only $10 for my daughter.

Transportation

I'm a big fan of mass transit, but I've always been intimidated by New York's subways. Not anymore. As long as you know where you're going and where not to go during particular hours, you're fine—probably safer than in a cab (although I didn't see one cabbie accident in two weeks). Again, hopstop.com is invaluable for subway travel in major cities.

Saving

Personally, I think Nashville has fabulous shopping, and so I had no desire to spend money or time schlepping in and out of stores. However, when in need of clean bathrooms, I hit department stores. These are the best in the city. (Second option is Starbucks, usually always one nearby.) The only problem with department store bathrooms is the minute you leave, you walk past those fabulous racks and displays. I broke down and bought some perfume at Henri Bendel's on Fifth Avenue. I couldn't help it. And my son did pick up some great shirts after another pit stop—30 percent off the sale merchandise. How could we pass that up?

All in all, I didn't stay within my budget. But I did stretch it. And more importantly, we added great memories to our life stories. And that was worth it.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Sushi: Takahachi at 145 Duane Street in Tribeca. Best sushi anywhere in the country.

Best homemade veggieburger: Whym at Ninth Avenue and 58th Street.

Best scone in the country: Amy's Bread on Ninth Avenue between 46th and 47th Streets. Pear, mango and almond scones paired with French roast coffee in the morning? To die for!

Best Italian: I Tre Merli at 183 West 10th Street. I closed my eyes and could have sworn I was in Italy.

Best egg white omelet with goat cheese and spinach: Café Condesa, 183 West 10th Street.

Best fast-food falafel: Mamoun's Restaurant, 119 McDougal Street, near Washington Square Park. There's minimal seating so head over to the park. It's a scene with live music, children, and owners with dogs plus a glorious fountain where everyone splashes and calms their frizzled nerves.

Best slice of pizza: Bleeker Street Pizza, 69 7th Avenue South. Trust me, Jimmy Kimmel and Food Network, among other sources, rank it as one of the best. Loved it!

Favorite frozen yogurt: Yogurtland, 267 Bleeker Street. I know, most people say Pinkberry, but I like the self-serve set-up, "a little of this, a lot of that." You pay by the weight of your creation.

Best neighborhood down-home cooking: Friend of a Farmer, 77 Irving Place East of Union Square. I must give credit to my niece; it's one of her favorites.

IMPORTANT TIP:

When renting a private home, keep in mind there is a one-time cleaning fee always attached to each stay. Check out reviews, availability, what's included and preferred payment. Ask if the rate is negotiable if staying more than a few days. Confirm whether wireless is free, use of the exercise amenities is included and what are the check-in/check-out procedures. Look for managed apartments so you don't have the owner's personal stuff lying around.