Grown-up road trip

America's true homes of distinction

Published On: September 25, 2009

On a recent August morning, we got in Shelley's Range Rover and headed for Washington D.C. and other points of interest. The anticipation had been building for a year—this being the length of time it usually takes us to plan a trip. We—Shelley and Bill Harwell, Steve Sirls and Allen DeCuyper—take one every year to see homes in America that we haven't seen or that we saw on the family vacation and don't really remember. This year was going to be extra special because we had added a church in New Kent County, Virginia that Bill and Steve's relatives attended in the 17th century.

First stop, Washington to see Julia Child's kitchen. We knew it was at the American Hstory Museum but didn't realize that everyone had seen the movie, and the line would be so long. But it was worth the wait.

On a patriotic high, we went to the second floor to see Old Glory. This room and its content make one weep with pride thinking of Francis Scott key penning those beautiful words to the "Star Spangled Banner." This flag, with all but one of its 15 stars, will give you chills. It did us, anyway.

That evening, we had dinner with my cousins John and Megan Sandidge at the Majestic. Our friend Katie Lamb suggested we dine there because it was the only place that had ever offered her celeriac as a side. OMG. She was right. It was wonderful, and we stayed until 10 p.m. (pretty late for pretty-old folks).

Bright and early the next day, we got the car out of hock and headed for Mount Vernon. We passed the gardens (hard to believe, I know) to head for the house—an accidentally wise decision that resulted in a private tour for the four of us. Now, if you are an old house person, you know Mt. Vernon and a private tour are worth an early wake-up call.

We strolled the grounds and saw wonderful beds, orchards, boxwoods and magnificent vistas. Mount Vernon's fabulous new visitor center offers something for everyone and cleverly outlines the riveting life of one of this country's Founding Fathers. Still on our patriotic high, we each purchased a small boxwood to take back to Nashville for our own gardens.

We drove to Richmond that evening. Weary from the road, we stopped at a Holiday Inn (yes, a Holiday Inn). It was worth it because we had great road food (not road kill) right across the street. If you haven't guessed it by now, this trip is not only for the sights but the food and the wine too.

The next day we traveled down the road 20 miles to see the church mentioned earlier. Saint Peter's is way back in the New Kent County woods so we turned on the GPS. William Sandridge and John Sandidge (not the cousins with whom we dined) attended services here in the 17th and 18th century. We were there only a few minutes before the rector came over to give us a tour. What a delightful person. He told us about the history of the location, including the fact that George and Martha Washington married in the church in 1759. Wow!

We started our drive to Charlottesville, turned the corner onto the main road and spotted a winery. Needless to say, we stopped. One hour later, we all had a case and a smile although Bill's was not as large a smile because he was our designated driver.

Our second destination: Monticello and its wonderful gardens. We were looking forward to this because Thomas Jefferson is our hero. He had some faults, of course, but who doesn't? The mansion did not disappoint an already awestruck group. We are sponges at heart and love to abosrb history and marvel at these wonders of the past we're fortunate enough to have today. Books, architecture, plants and gift shops. How could one go wrong?

The next two homes were virgin territory for us so we saved one for Saturday and the other for Sunday. Dinner in Charlottesville is not to be missed. Zinc was French-Blue Ridge Mountain fusion (a first for us). Never has better vichyssoise passed our lips, and we couldn't get Shelley's head out of the mussel bowl.

Our Saturday stop: Montpellier. This estate is magic in itself because it's 20 miles up into Virginia hunt country on Constitution Highway. The road is so-named because James and Dolly Madison lived there when they weren't at the White House and after the original burned in the War of 1812. Gotta love Dolly. She's the one who saved the portrait of George Washington, and James is the father of our Constitution. The restoration of their home is superior and should be seen by all.

It was hard to leave the next day because our Bed and Breakfast. located by an apple farm, was 200 years old and owned by a divine cook.

We tore away and headed for Bedford and Jefferson's summer retreat, Poplar Forest. This was really a treat. Restored and shining like new, it did not disappoint. We could feel the magic of the site and the love that the community has for the very special eight-sided marvel. Off to Roanoke for a night at the The Hotel Roanoke where we enjoyed another great meal and talked of the drive back to Nashville. It's always good to get back to Nashville.

Next year, it's off to the Hudson River Valley which we hope will be just as welcoming as our jaunt through our nation's historical homes.