A good, good fella — Mike Kelly: Jimmy Kelly's

Sipcodes:37203

Published On: March 30, 2010

Have you ever watched The Godfather, Goodfellas, Casino or any of those movies where the crime bosses roll into a club and are granted access through the kitchen via a secret knock, are greeted happily, dressed sharply and proceed to live largely? It's glamorous. It's exciting. It's exclusive. It's hush-hush.

That's how I feel when I go to Jimmy Kelly's. Now mind you, I'm not suggesting there's anything illicit going on here at all. Quite the contrary. It's just that there's an old school familiarity that makes you feel all grown up and inner circle at Jimmy Kelly's. It could be the history of the place, standing strong and proud in Nashville for more than 75 years thanks to one family that has and always will be committed to this community. Or maybe it's Mike Kelly, the silver fox proprietor, donning a coat and tie each night to greet his guests at the front door. It's the corncakes, it's the creaky floors, it's the old-style steak dinner and white jacket service. It's everything.

If you've lived in Nashville for any length of time, you've heard of Jimmy Kelly's. If you grew up in Nashville, Jimmy Kelly's has most likely been a part of your life. Once, there was a little restaurant corridor that ran down Harding Road, and dining-out life seemed to rotate between these little treasures troves of good eats. Moon's Drugstore had the best grilled cheese. You could go to Zibert's for books then hit the deli next door for the best Reuben ever. Judy's West Nightclub on White Bridge Road was always a treat except for the cigarette smoke, and Belle Meade Motel rocked out on its fried chicken and cheeseburgers. And then there was Jimmy Kelly's.

Located across the street from Belle Meade Movie Theater, Jimmy Kelly's was where legends were made and where stories happened. Buster and Howard, Nashville's most famous waiters, knew everyone, and could scoot you downstairs through the narrow doorframes—or, if you had children with you, maybe upstairs. They might even have some pie for you (they would just give it to you since it wasn't on the menu).

How he managed to maintain the comfortable feel and history of the original restaurant when it moved to Louise Avenue behind the old Father Ryan is testimony to both Mike's appeal and skill and to the restaurant, itself. It still looms large on the Nashville restaurant scene, and each month, Mike is out there encouraging people to try a new drink he has made or taste this new shrimp. He never stops. From a limerick contest to benefit Haiti's earthquake victims to a new cocktail to gear folks up for the Steeplechase benefiting Monroe Carell Jr Children's Hospital, Mike is out there, involved and in touch. So take a moment this month and stop by his "home" and try the new Iroquois drink he has concocted. Have a few corncakes. Talk to Lee at the bar. You won't regret it.